Clear formulations with Ceramides: Toner, Gels etc.
General formulation hints for toner or gels with Ceramides
- Ceramides are not water soluble, therefore a solubilizer is needed to formulate toner or aqueous gels.
- The solubilization of Ceramides with classical solubilizers requires very high concentrations of the solubilizer.
- Surprisingly O/W emulsifiers like TEGINACID® C or VARISOFT® PATC are better suitable for the solubilization of Ceramides.
- Ceramide IIIB requires a significantly lower concentration of solubilizer compared to Ceramide III or Ceramide VI.
Clear formulations with Ceramides: Toner, Gels etc.
Solubilization of Ceramides
The following table shows the concentration of different solubilizers necessary to get a clear solution of 0.1% Ceramide in water.
| Cer IIIB | Cer III | Cer VI | |
|---|---|---|---|
| TAGAT® CH 40 | 3% | >10% | >10% |
| TEGO® SML 20 | >8% | >10% | >10% |
| TEGO® SMO 80 V | >7% | >10% | >10% |
| TEGOSOFT® PC 41 MB | >10% | >10% | >10% |
| TEGO® Solve 61 MB | >10% | >10% | >10% |
| TEGINACID® C* | 2% | 4% | 3% |
| VARISOFT PATC* | 2% | 5% | 4% |
* addition of min. 1% Propylene Glycol recommended to avoid gel formation during addition of water
Processing
- Heat Ceramide + solubizer to appr. 75 °C (Cer IIIB) resp. 85-90 °C (Cer III and VI) until the Ceramides are completely melted.
- Add the water slowly step by step. Start with hot water (75-85 °C). After the addition of appr. 1/4 of the water the rest can be added cold.
Ceramide IIIB requires significantly lower concentration of solubilizer compared to Ceramide III.
Clear formulations with Ceramides: Toner, Gels etc.
Moisturizing Toner for Hair and Scalp (MAC 874/2)
| Phase | Ingredients | w/w% |
|---|---|---|
| A | Water | 91.9 |
| B | VARISOFT® PATC (Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride) | 2.5 |
| Ceramide IIIB® (Ceramide NP) | 0.1 | |
| Glycerin | 3.0 | |
| C | LACTIL® (Sodium Lactate; Sodium PCA; Glycine; Fructose; Urea; Niacinamide; Inositol; Sodium Benzoate; Lactic Acid) | 2.0 |
| D | TEGO® Cosmo C 100 (Creatine) | 0.5 |
| Z | Preservative | q.s. |
Processing
- Heat phase B to appr. 75 °C until the Ceramide IIIB is solubilized clearly.
- Add phase B to phase A (20- 22 °C) slowly while stirring.
- Add LACTIL® and TEGO® Cosmo C 100 and stirr until the solution is clear and homogenous.
Remark: During the addition of phase B to phase A the formation of gel particles will occur. These particles get solubilized after prolonged stirring. The formation of the gel particles can be avoided if 2% Propylene Glycol are added to phase B.
Two-pot-process
Only phase B must be heated to 75 °C.
The water must not be heated.