Hot processed O/W emulsion with Ceramides

Stabilization of Ceramides by the lamellar structure of O/W emulsions

  1. Mixed crystalls of hydrophilic emulsifier and polar waxes
  2. Dispersed oil
  3. Aqueous phase

Three-dimensional network of liquid-crystalline (lamellar) structures consisting of emulsifier and consistency agents such as Glyceryl Stearate and Stearyl Alcohol.

Hot processed O/W emulsion with Ceramides

Stabilization of Ceramides by lamellar stuctures in O/W emulsions

Phase Ingredients w/w% w/w%
A TEGO® Care 450 (Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate) 3.0  
  TEGINACID C (Ceteareth-25)   2.0
  TEGIN® M Pellets MB (Glyceryl Stearate) 2.0 4.5
  Stearyl Alcohol 1.0 1.5
  Ceramide III (Ceramide NP) 0.2 0.2
B Water 93.8 91.8
  Preservative q.s. q.s.

Test formulations consist of emulsifier, consistency agents, Ceramide III and water. No emollients are present.

  • No crystalls are visible because Ceramide III is incorporated in the lamellar structure of the emulsion.
  • No recrystallization of the Ceramides during storage.
  • The stabilization of Ceramides by the lamellar sturcture is independant of the emollients in the formulation.

As long as the O/W emulsion contains lamellar structures the type of emollients used in the cosmetic formulation is almost not limited.

TEGO® Care 450

TEGINACID® C

Hot processed O/W emulsion with Ceramides

Influence of the Ceramide concentration on the properties of O/W Creams

Phase Ingredients

MAC 853		 w/w%

1		 w/w%

2		 w/w%

3		 w/w%

4
A ABIL® Care XL 80 MB (Bis-PEG/PPG-20/5 PEG/PPG-20/5 Dimethicone; Methoxy PEG/PPG 25/4 Diemthicone; Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00
  TEGINACID® C (Ceteareth-25) 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50
  TEGIN® M Pellets MB (Glyceryl Stearate) 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50
  Stearyl Alcohol 2.00 1.90 1.80 1.50
  TEGOSOFT® OS (Ethylhexyl Stearate) 8.50 8.50 8.50 8.50
  Ceramide III (Ceramide NP)   0.10 0.20 0.50
B Glycerin 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00
  Water 71.00 71.00 71.00 71.00
C Carbomer 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20
  TEGOSOFT® OS (Ethylhexyl Stearate) 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80
D Sodium Hydroxide (10% in water) 0.70 0.70 0.70 0.70
Z Euxyl PE 9010 0.70 0.70 0.70 0.70

Processing

  1. Heat phase A and B separately to approx. 90 °C.
  2. Add phase A to B with stirring.1)
  3. Homogenize.
  4. Cool with gentle stirring to approx 60°C and add phase C.
  5. Homogenize for a short time.
  6. Add phase D below 40 °C with stirring.


1) Important: If phase A has to be charged into the vessel first, phase B must be added without stirring

Hot processed O/W emulsion with Ceramides

Influence of the Ceramide Concentration on the Properties of O/W Creams

  Without Ceramide III 0.1% Ceramide III 0.2% Ceramide III 0.5% Ceramide III
Appearance at 90 °C blue shine blue shine blue shine blue shine
Appearance at 20 °C brilliant brilliant brilliant brilliant
after 5 freeze/thaw cycles
(-15 °C/20 °C)		 Homogeneous Homogeneous Homogeneous Homogeneous
Mean droplet size Increasing droplet size → Increasing droplet size → Increasing droplet size → Increasing droplet size →
Viscosity of the emulsion [Pas] 130 147 150 192
3 Mo Room temperature No recrystallization No recrystallization No recrystallization Ceramide crystalls

With Ceramide concentrations of 0.2% or lower a recrystallization of the Ceramide III was not observed.

Without Ceramide III

0.2% Ceramide III

0.5% Ceramide III

Hot processed O/W emulsion with Ceramides

General formulation hints

  • Ceramides are stabilized by the lamellar structure of O/W emulsions.
  • < =0.2% Ceramides: As long as the O/W emulsion contains lamellar structures the composition and the concentration of the oil phase is not limited.
  • >=0.2% Ceramides: if higher concentration of Ceramides should be applied a recrystallization of the Ceramides might occur. It can be avoided by emollients with higher polarity and by higher oil phase contents.
  • Emollients with a high polarity help to decrease the solubilization temperature of Ceramides in the oil phase of the emulsion.
  • Ceramide IIIB requires a lower solubilization temperature compared to Ceramide III or VI.

Hot processed O/W emulsion with Ceramides

Caring & Soothing Body Lotion (MAC 804/1/2)

Phase Ingredients w/w%
A TEGO® Care LTP MB (Sorbitan Laurate; Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate; Dilauryl Citrate) 2.0
  TEGIN® Pellets MB(Glyceryl Stearate SE) 3.0
  TEGO® Alkanol 1618 (Cetearyl Alcohol) 0.5
  TEGOSOFT® MM MB (Myristyl Myristate) 1.0
  TEGOSOFT® P (Isopropyl Palmitate) 4.0
  ABIL® 350 (Dimethicone) 2.0
  Myristyl Alcohol 0.5
  Isohexadecane 5.0
  Paracera W 80 (Cera Microcristallina) 0.5
  CERAMIDE IIIB (Ceramide NP) 0.1
B Glycerin 5.0
  Panthenol 0.5
  Water 70.9
C TEGO® Carbomer 141 (Carbomer) 0.2
  Mineral Oil 0.8
D TEGO® Natural Betaine (Betaine) 2.0
  Water 2.0
E Sodium Hydroxide (10 % in water) q.s.
Z Preservative, Perfume q.s.

Processing

  1. Heat phase A and B separately to approx. 80 °C.
  2. Add phase A to B with stirring.1)
  3. Homogenize.
  4. Cool with gentle stirring to approx 60°C and add phase C.
  5. Homogenize for a short time.
  6. Add phase D and E below 40 °C with stirring.

1) Important: If phase A has to be charged into the vessel first, phase B must be added without stirring

 

80 °C are sufficient for the solubilization of Ceramide IIIB.

Hot processed O/W emulsion with Ceramides

O/W Anti-Age Face Cream (F 48/08-4)

Phase Ingredients w/w%
A TEGO® Care 450 (Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate) 3.0
  TEGIN® M Pellets MB (Glyceryl Stearate) 2.0
  Stearyl Alcohol 2.0
  TEGOSOFT® MM MB (Myristyl Myristate) 2.0
  TEGOSOFT® CT (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) 9.0
  TEGOSOFT® P (Isopropyl Palmitate) 4.0
  Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojobe) Seed Oil 3.0
  CERAMIDE IIIB (Ceramide NP) 0.1
B Water 71.90
  Glycerin 3.0
Z Preservative, Perfume q.s.

Processing

  1. Heat phase A and B separately to approx. 75 °C.
  2. Add phase A to B with stirring.1)
  3. Homogenize.
  4. Cool with gentle stirring

1) Important: If phase A has to be charged into the vessel first, phase B must be added without stirring

 

With suitable oilphase Ceramide IIIB can be processed at 75 °C.

Hot processed O/W emulsion with Ceramides

Face & Body Cream (F 11/10-5)

Phase Ingredients w/w%
A TEGO® Care PSC 3 MB (Polyglyceryl-3 Citrate/Stearate) 3.0
  TEGIN® M Pellets MB (Glyceryl Stearate) 1.2
  Stearyl Alcohol 1.3
  TEGOSOFT® OER MB (Oleyl Erucate) 5.0
  TEGOSOFT® CT (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) 8.5
  Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil 6.0
  CERAMIDE III (Ceramide NP) 0.1
B Water 66.9
  Glycerin 3.0
C Water 3.8
  Keltrol CG-SFT (Xanthan Gum) 0.2
D Sodium Hydroxide (10% in water) 0.2
E Rokonsal BSB-N (Benzyl Alcohol; Benzoic Acid; Sorbid Acid) 0.8
Z Perfume q.s.

Processing

  1. Heat phase A and B separately to approx. 90 °C.
  2. Add phase A to B with stirring.1)
  3. Homogenize.
  4. Cool with gentle stirring and add phase C below 40 °C.
  5. Add phase D.
  6. Add phase E and adjust the pH to 5.0-5.5.

1) Important: If phase A has to be charged into the vessel first, phase B must be added without stirring

 

Ceramide III has to be solubilized at 90 °C in the hot oil phase.

Hot processed O/W emulsion with Ceramides

Summary

  • The Ceramides have to be solubilized in the hot oil phase.
  • No limitation regarding the composition of the oil phase as long as the formulation contains lamellar phases and as long as the Ceramide concentration does not exceed 0.2%.
  • Higher concentration of Ceramides might recrystallize. Then the use of an higher amount of polar emollients and/or a higher oil phase content are recommended.
  • The more polar the oil phase is the lower the solubilization temperature of the Ceramides will be.
  • Comparing the Ceramides of our portfolio Ceramide IIIB needs the lowest solubilization temperature.