W/O Emulsion with Ceramides

  • The use of pure Ceramides in W/O emulsions is very limited because the W/O emulsion doesn‘t contain lamellar phases which solubilize the Ceramides.
  • The solubility of the Ceramides in the oil phase is crucial to prevent recrystallization at room temperature.
  • Ceramide IIIB is the only pure ceramide which is little soluble at room temperature in very polar oils.
  • For the solubilization of Ceramide IIIB Octyldodecanol is required. Then the combination with other medium polar to polar emollients is possible.
  • Other options to formulate W/O emulsion with Ceramides: SK-INFLUX® or SKINMIMICS®.

W/O Emulsion with Ceramides

W/O Emulsion with Ceramide IIIB

Phase Ingredients w/w%
A ABIL® EM 90 2.0
  Paracera W 80 0.5
  Hydr. Castor Oil 0.5
  Emollients 21.0
  Ceramide IIIB 0.1
  Glycerin 3.0
  Sodium Chloride 0.5
  Water 72.4
  Preservative q.s.
Emollients w/w% w/w% w/w% w/w% w/w% w/w%
Octyldodecanol 10.5 7.0 7.0 7.0    
TEGOSOFT® APM 10.5 7.0 7.0   7.0  
TEGOSOFT® CT   7.0   7.0 7.0 10.5
TEGOSOFT® DC MB     7.0 7.0 7.0 10.5
Recrystallisation of Ceramides no no no no yes yes

As long as the formulation contains Octyldodecanol no recrystallisation of Ceramide IIIB was observed.
TEGOSOFT® APM was not able to avoid the recrystallisation of Ceramide IIIB.
Also a combination of medium polar oils cannot prevent the recrystallisation of Ceramide IIIB.

W/O Emulsion with Ceramides

Winter Time Body Lotion (MAC 806/4)

Phase Ingredients w/w%
A ABIL® EM 90 (Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone) 2.0
  Paracera W 80 (Microcristalline Wax) 0.5
  Hydr. Castor Oil 0.5
  Octyldodecanol 7.0
  TEGOSOFT® CT (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) 7.0
  TEGOSOFT® DC MB (Decyl Cocoate) 7.0
  Ceramide IIIB (Ceramide NP) 0.1
B Glycerin 3.0
  Sodium Chloride 0.5
  Water 72.4
Z Preservative, Perfume q.s.

Processing

  1. Heat phase A to approx. 80 °C.
  2. Add phase B (80 °C or room temperature) slowly while stirring.
  3. Homogenise for a short time.
  4. Cool with gentle stirring below 30 °C and homogenise again.

Ceramide IIIB is the only pure Ceramide suitable for W/O emulsions.

W/O Emulsion with Ceramides

W/O Emulsion with SK-INFLUX® or SKINMIMICS®

  • High amounts of SK-INFLUX® or SKINMIMICS® reduce the stability of W/O emulsions significantly because they contain O/W emulsifiers and Carbomer (SK-INFLUX).
  • Both actives influence the viscosity of W/O emulsions directly after preparation as well as during storage.
  • The stabilization of the viscosity could be achieved by optimizing the amount of stabilizing waxes like Microcristalline wax, Hydr. Castor Oil, Bees Wax etc.

W/O Emulsion with Ceramides

Formulation Hints

  • Max. usage concentration: 2%
  • SK-INFLUX® (V MB) and SKINMIMICS® are added to the water phase and the W/O emulsion is prepared as usual.
  • SK-INFLUX® (V MB) is not compatible with MgSO4. Therefore the use of Sodium Chloride is recommended.
  • SKINMIMICS® is compatible with MgSO4.

W/O Emulsion with Ceramides

Velvet Luxurious Body Lotion (MM 328/4/2)

Phase Ingredients w/w%
A ABIL® EM 90 (Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone) 2.0
  Hydr. Castor Oil 0.5
  Paracera W 80 (Microcristalline Wax) 0.5
  TEGOSOFT® DEC (Diethylhexyl Carbonate) 5.0
  TEGOSOFT® CT (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) 10.0
  Isocetyl Palmitate 10.0
B SK-INFLUX® V MB (Ceramide NP; Ceramide AP; Ceramide EOP; Phytosphingosine; Cholesterol; Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate; Carbomer; Xanthan Gum) 2.0
  LACTIL® (Sodium Lactate; Sodium PCA; Glycine; Fructose; Urea; Niacinamide; Inositol; Sodium Benzoate; Lactic Acid) 3.0
  Sodium Chloride 0.5
  Water 63.5
Z Preservative, Perfume q.s.

Processing

  1. Heat phase A to approx. 80 °C.
  2. Add phase B (80 °C or room temperature) slowly while stirring.
  3. Homogenise for a short time.
  4. Cool with gentle stirring below 30 °C and homogenise again.